Hanging an internal door looks fiddly, but if you take it step by step it is well within reach for a confident DIYer with a bit of patience. This is a clear, beginner-friendly guide on how to hang a door, from checking the fit to fitting the hinges and latch. Take your time and measure twice, and you will get a door that swings sweetly and closes with a satisfying click.
Before you start, a quick note. This covers internal doors. External front and back doors are a different job, because they need weatherproofing, a secure multi-point lock and a proper seal, which is why most people leave those to a fitter. For an internal door, though, read on.
What you will need
Gather your tools first so you are not hunting mid-job:
- A new internal door and a pair or three of hinges.
- A tape measure, pencil and a straight edge.
- A sharp chisel and a mallet.
- A hand plane or a power planer for trimming.
- A drill and screwdriver, plus the right screws.
- Wedges to hold the door while you work.
- A latch and handle set.
Step one: check the fit
Offer the new door up to the frame, or measure the opening carefully. You are aiming for an even gap of about 2 to 3 millimetres down each side and along the top, and a slightly larger gap at the bottom to clear the floor covering. If the door is too big, mark where it needs trimming.
Step two: trim to size
Take a little off each edge rather than a lot off one side, so the door stays balanced. Plane down to your line in light passes, checking the fit as you go. It is much easier to shave a bit more off than to put timber back, so go slowly. On the hinge edge, a very slight bevel helps the door clear the frame as it opens.
Step three: mark and cut the hinge recesses
Stand the door in the frame on wedges, at the right height, and mark where the hinges will sit. A common layout is one hinge about 150 millimetres from the top, one about 225 millimetres from the bottom, and a third in the middle for a heavier door.
Hold each hinge in place and score around it with a pencil or knife. Then chisel out a shallow recess, called a mortise, so the hinge sits flush with the edge of the door. The recess needs to be exactly the depth of the hinge leaf. Too deep and the door will bind, too shallow and it will not close properly.
Step four: fit the hinges to the door
Screw the hinges into their recesses on the door. Use the right length of screw so it bites without splitting the timber, and start with one screw per hinge until you have checked everything lines up. Drilling a small pilot hole first stops the screws wandering or splitting the wood.
Step five: hang the door
Wedge the door back in the opening at the correct height and gaps, then mark the hinge positions onto the frame. Chisel matching recesses into the frame, offer the door up, and screw the hinges to the frame. This is where a helper earns their cuppa, as holding a door steady while you drive screws is awkward on your own.
Once it is on, open and close it a few times. If it binds or the gaps are uneven, small adjustments to the hinge recesses or a touch more planing usually put it right.
Step six: fit the latch and handle
Mark the height for the handle, usually around a metre off the floor. Drill the hole for the latch into the edge of the door and a matching hole through the face for the spindle, following the latch instructions. Fit the latch, screw on the handles, then fit the striking plate on the frame so the latch clicks home when the door closes.
Test it a final time. A well-hung door should swing freely, stay where you leave it, and close with a clean click.
When to call a professional
There is no shame in handing this over. If the frame itself is out of square, the door is a solid hardwood fire door, or you are fitting an external door, it is worth getting a fitter in to save frustration and material. The same goes if a door has dropped or sticks and you would rather it was simply sorted. Our window and door repairs team handles sticking and dropped doors across York and North Yorkshire.
And if you are replacing an external door rather than an internal one, it is usually best fitted as a complete unit. Have a look at our composite doors if you want a solid, secure front door done properly.
FAQs
How much gap should there be around a hung door?
Aim for an even gap of roughly 2 to 3 millimetres down each side and along the top. At the bottom, leave a slightly larger gap to clear the floor covering, usually around 6 to 10 millimetres depending on whether there is carpet or a hard floor.
Which way should a door hinge open?
That depends on the room. As a rule, doors open into the room rather than out into a hallway, and hinge on the side that keeps the door out of the way and lets the room be seen as you enter. Think about light switches and furniture too, so the open door does not block anything.
Can a beginner hang a door?
Yes, an internal door is a realistic weekend job for a careful DIYer. The keys are measuring accurately, trimming a little at a time, and cutting the hinge recesses to the right depth. External doors are trickier and are usually best left to a professional.
Why does my newly hung door not close properly?
The usual causes are hinge recesses cut too deep or too shallow, uneven gaps, or a frame that is out of square. Check the gaps all round, and adjust the recess depth or plane the binding edge slightly. If the frame itself is twisted, it may need a fitter to sort.
Replacing the door rather than rehanging the old one? Download our latest brochure to browse the range, or request a free quote and we will pop out for a look across York and North Yorkshire.